Once regarded as a specialty product for lovers of “natural”, plant-based skin care, face oils are now a staple in almost every beauty brand: They are compatible with most other products, are effective at nourishing dry and stressed skin, and can give dull faces an instant glow .
But more recently, thanks to the emergence of a new category – the clinically active “serum oil”, facial oils have appeared in high quality, scientifically based skin care lines. Enriched with high-tech ingredients and using the latest advances in extraction techniques, these new generation formulations elevate the simple face oil to something that can do much more than just nourish.
Worth the cost?
While there are new oils out there that can compete or trump the best serums, they come at a price. So how do you know you are not paying over the odds? “The main benefit of facial oil is its omega fatty acid content,” says Georgie Cleeve, founder of Oskia Skincare. says Georgie Cleeve, founder of Oskia Skincare. “The skin’s barrier consists of fatty acids, among other things, so that the addition of a vegetable oil rich in fatty acids is an extensive filling of the outer protective layer.”
But, Georgie points out, an omega is an omega, whether it comes from an expensive vegetable source or a cheap one, or olive, plus a small percentage of the more expensive ones like cacay. “That means the mind-blowing price tags they can wear aren’t always Some products cost up to £ 90 for essentially simple mixes.
Natural active ingredients
And while some oil-supplying plant substances also naturally contain highly effective molecules, such as retinoic acid (vitamin A, for example contained in rose hip oil) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C, contained in sea buckthorn), this is only possible with the appropriate use of the procurement, extraction and development of one Oil like a lab-made serum that you can hope to get results.
Know your things
As with any skin care product purchase – especially one you are willing to spend money on – read the label carefully. The following checklist is a good place to start; An oil that meets all of the criteria isn’t going to be cheap, but it should be spectacular.
- What ingredients are at the top of the list?
If “super” seed oils (cranberries, prickly pears, moringa, chia, baobab, oats and rose hips) come first, then it is a premium product. If the list starts with caprylic / capric triglyceride (a naturally-derived but synthesized base oil), your oil will cut it off.
- Is it single estate or organic?
As with wine and olive oil, an oil from a single estate means good traceability, while organic approvals (important to avoid pesticide contamination, especially essential oils and grape seeds) often mean better quality.
Bioactive substances (often obtained from algae, algae and coastal plants) raise your oil to a serum performance level, while terms such as “clinically proven”, “fat-soluble synthetic ingredients” and “native plant cell extracts” should also inspire confidence.
Oils and plant extracts that survive in extreme environments (Sahara, Kalahari, Andes, Amazon, seabed) are usually rich in vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals.
If extraction processes such as cold pressing, steam distillation or enzymatic and supercritical CO2 extraction are mentioned on the packaging, you are on the right page.
- Is Science Getting Up?
Can your brand demonstrate clinical efficacy studies in vitro (test tube) and in vivo (on the skin)? Is there a brand-exclusive complex that has proven itself? They want to pay a premium for (expensive) scientific diligence, not for raw materials.
Here are our picks of the best new generation face oils to buy right now …
Restoration oil
£ 75.00
With cell-regenerating sea fennel extract and anti-inflammatory turmeric root.
Face oil
£ 35.00
With prebiotics plus soothing bisabolol and oat oil, this strengthens the skin’s protective barrier.
Multi-Action Super-C Retinol Vitamin C Serum
£ 62.00
Prebiotics, vegetable oils, and a clinically proven niacinamide complex to lighten and even out skin tone.
Free vitamin C glow oil made from acai & sea buckthorn
High doses of vitamin C from natural and artificial sources make this oil a reliably glowing oil.
Algae retinol face oil
£ 60.00
Seed oils, phytonutrient-rich algae, amino acids and a dash of retinol ensure fresher, smoother skin.
The C drops
£ 73.00
A nice way to incorporate vitamin C into your routine with soothing CBD extract.
