A team of researchers from universities in Italy, Turkey, Vietnam and Mauritius wrote a report in Molecules on the use of essential oils as natural sources of fragrances for cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. The aim is to “highlight the enormous versatility of essential oils as important sources for natural fragrances” in these categories.
According to the review, the global essential oils market valued at EUR 6.25 billion ($ 7.51 billion) in 2018 would grow 9% CAGR between 2019 and 2026. The results showed that many “high quality essential oils” were used as fragrances in the cosmetics industry, including citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and other flower oils.
Interest in essential oil research has also been “fueled primarily by the perfume industry,” the researchers said.
In addition to the aroma, essential oils offer a “complexity of active ingredients”. .
“Essential oils have regained popularity in recent years,” the researchers wrote.
“… Their ability to impart a wide range of unique and pleasant aromas to cosmetic products and at the same time to act as bioactive ingredients (anti-aging, antimicrobial, sun protection and whitening) make them valuable and highly valued ingredients in cosmetics and cosmetic products. ”
And while the primary purpose of incorporating essential oils into cosmetics remained flavor, the increased interest in now has been fueled by science-based health benefits of many, the researchers said. The additional health story made essential oils “more enticing and appealing to consumers,” they said.
Orange essential oils, for example, had proven particularly popular as they offered various remedies such as skin elasticity and firmness, and were able to combat scars, acne, and stretch marks. Lemon and orange essential oils also had antiseptic properties, making them “ideal ingredients for skin and hair care,” the researchers said.
“… Essential oils are an important asset in the cosmetics industry, as they not only impart pleasant aromas in various products, but also act as preservatives and active ingredients and at the same time offer the skin various benefits.”
Ride the “back to nature” trend.
Importantly, the increasing interest and use of essential oils and plant extracts in recent years has been “hugely boosted” by the “back to nature” trend in the global cosmetics industry, according to the review.
“Recently, green consumption and the revival of the use of ‘natural tones’ have given new impetus to the development of herbal products, particularly in the beauty and wellness industries,” the researchers wrote. Many of the popular cosmetic companies had recommended natural fragrances in recent years and opted for “minimally processed natural ingredients,” which in turn sparked interest in and use of essential oils.
“… Essential oils are widely used in modern skin care products because of their complexity of active ingredients, their highly fragrant properties and their natural marketing image,” they said.
Looking ahead, they said, “The future of essential oils looks promising, with lucrative opportunities in the cosmetics and perfume industries.”
Allergen barriers – special cosmetic labels required.
However, as the industry continued to use essential oils, the researchers said the allergenic properties needed to be carefully weighed.
Of the 26 possible allergenic fragrances defined in the EU, 18 could be found as ingredients in essential oils. “For this reason, they must be stated on the packaging or in the package insert if the concentration of these allergenic fragrances is higher than the permissible concentration of 0.01% in shower gels and baths (rinsing products) and higher than 0.001% in body oils, massage oils and creams (leave-on products). “
Testing individual oils and blends that could be found to have co-reactivity with other fragrances would also be important in the future. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) offered guidelines for the safe use of essential oils in cosmetic products, the researcher said, and the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) had set specifications for analyzing and coding these ingredients.
“Although essential oils are generally considered safe, they are complex blends of compounds, some of which [are] Known as allergens and skin sensitizers, must be featured on cosmetic labels, especially for consumers with sensitive, allergy-prone skin or pre-existing skin conditions, and could not opt for patch testing prior to using products containing them. “
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Source: Molecules
Published online before printing, doi: 10.3390 / molecules 26030666.
Title: “Essential oils as natural sources of fragrances for cosmetics and cosmeceuticals”
Authors: JB. Sharmeen, FM. Mahomoodally, G. Zengin, and F. Maggi
