In an article in Cosmetic Dermatology, researchers from Brazil analyzed the use of essential oils in hair care products, especially those that target the scalp. The research is particularly relevant given the increasing consumer interest and scientific research on natural, bioactive compounds.
“The most important properties desired by consumers in the hair care category are natural ingredients, herbal ingredients and the“ free from ”claims such as free from salts, sulfates, silicones, parabens and other ingredients perceived as harmful,” the researchers write.
Essential oils, they said, could be classified as natural, organic, and vegan, thus targeting these needs.
‘Great interest’ in essential oils in trichology
Review results showed that essential oils use “stood out high” in the cosmetic category, particularly for their use as active ingredients or enhancers and fragrances or aromatherapy ingredients. There is also “great interest” in the use of essential oils in trichology – the medical examination of hair and scalp, the researchers said.
For hair care in particular, there has been widespread use of essential oils for flavoring, but there has also been increasing interest in “skin cell function after topical application” for scalp care, they said.
“The studies have shown that the oils have particularly interesting effects on the scalp, such as: B. against hair loss, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antioxidant, anxiolytic and stimulating. “
“In addition, their lipophilic characteristic help helps[s] Maintaining the physiological microbiota balance of the scalp and skin, ”they wrote.
Plant essential oils such as lavender, thyme, peppermint, cajuput, cinnamon, clove, eucalyptus, sage, and tea tree, for example, have been known for their antimicrobial effects, but more research is needed into the relationship between the microbiome and these ingredients. Many essential oils could also be used synergistically in formulations, the researchers said. For example: Lavender, geranium, and bergamot in a shampoo with a pH of 5.5-6.5 can cleanse the scalp, reduce irritation, and control dandruff and excessive oiliness.
“The field of cosmetic dermatology is growing with the connection between the medical treatment of hair diseases and traditional cosmetics. As a result, essential oils in cosmetic and medicinal hair products are becoming increasingly popular as more reports of their beneficial effects on the scalp and hair are reported. “
In addition to the scalp, essential oils such as geranium, peppermint and tangerine have been shown to promote shine, suppleness and a pleasant scent.
Essential oils are “complex compounds” that warrant further investigation
However, the researchers said that despite the great interest in essential oils in hair care, detailed publications remained “scarce”. Further research is warranted, therefore, to truly understand the power essential oils can offer hair care formulations.
“Since these are complex compounds, their effects on skin, hair, scalp and shaft are not yet fully understood.”
“… It is important to highlight the need for further studies on the use of essential oils in hair treatments, mainly due to the large differences in the concentration of the active ingredients due to the extraction method, the time of extraction, climatic conditions, geographic location, lack of standardization, poor stability and reduced activity compared to synthetic active ingredients, ”the researchers write.
Source: Cosmetic Dermatology
Published online before going to press, doi: 10.1111 / jocd.14286
Title: “Potential Use of Essential Oils in Cosmetic and Dermatological Hair Products: A Review”
Authors: U. Sanches Abelan et al.
