Of the hundreds of hair products available to beauty consumers, oils are hands down one of the most difficult to use when used properly. Not only do they have a myriad of benefits (prepare to become a devotee of scalp massage), but they can create a number of styles, from a combed bun to a crispy beach wave. Choosing the right one depends on your texture and thickness to porosity and damage level. So when you are faced with options like coconut, argan, castor (among many, many others), where do you start? And of course – how do you avoid looking greasy?
Oil treatments before showering
According to stylist David Lopez, the recent advancement in oil formulations means that just about anyone can benefit from using one on your hair, especially the hair health treatment that should be addressed before looking for any products to style it. And while you might assume that if you have a naturally oily scalp and hair, naturally you shouldn’t use oils, he assures us that it doesn’t.
“We have to remember that the scalp is kind of an extension of the skin on your face,” he says. “When someone has oily skin and [they] keep undressing [their] Skin, if it doesn’t replace this moisture, the body will want to replace that moisture and pump out more oil. The oil production is completely off balance. Someone who has an oily scalp might benefit from scalp oil treatment once or twice a week. “
He swears by castor oil for promoting scalp health – he’s even a fan of mixing it with peppermint, tea tree, or rosemary essential oils to promote hair growth, or lavender as a natural antiseptic. “[If you] If you exercise a lot, oil can be used like an oil cleaner [on your face] to clean the neck twice, especially at the temples [of the neck]and the crown. It’s essentially a slowed-down version of how you shampoo your hair. “
Stylist and brand founder Charlotte Mensah is also a proponent of scalp massage with hair oil, which she believes increases blood flow and stimulates blood flow to the scalp. “[Scalp massage also] Helps nourish the scalp, moisturize the hair and prevent frizz, ”she says. Mensah also explains that using oil occasionally can improve the health of your scalp – especially now, in the winter when your skin and scalp run out of moisture – and if you are oily, massage before showering and then washing the oil with you Your favorite shampoo or scalp cleansing product. Trust us – there’s nothing like a long, leisurely scalp massage that will make your stressors feel very far away.
Lopez even adds a few drops of his favorite oils to his conditioner. “I’m going to get a little more slip out of the conditioner,” he says. “It’s like a little homemade hair mask, [with the] additional benefit of moisture and slip. “
Treatment & styling after showering
Oils also have their place in promoting the overall health of your hair after a shower, especially with thicker, curly, and curly textures. Lopez is a fan of oils to “lubricate the strands and reflect some light so it gets more shine,” but he doesn’t go as far as to say that oils can significantly moisturize your hair. Your hair may feel softer and more hydrated after using oils. While they can replace lipids and nourish your hair, they only create a barrier to trap moisture – they actually don’t moisturize your hair.
Although Mensah cannot provide additional moisture, she still recommends oils for heavily textured hair, especially her signature Manketti oil. “[It’s] unbeatable when it comes to coils and kinks. It’s loaded with vitamin E and rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids that act as a barrier to protect moisture from prolonged leakage from the hair. “
For those with medium length hair with loose curls, she recommends jojoba and argan oils, which are still loaded with beneficial fatty acids and vitamins. “[They’re] Perfect for maintaining medium length and loose curls and waves. “
And if your hair is thinner or straight, you can still use oils to tame runaways and nourish your hair – a mist product (Mensah suggests their Manketti Oil Finishing Mist) will make sure that you apply or use it Don’t overdo the weighing down your hair.
Regardless of texture or thickness, oils are especially beneficial for people with highly porous hair when your hair cuticle is more raised. This means that your hair can easily absorb moisture but not hold it back, resulting in dry and brittle hair that is more prone to breakage and frizz. When you style your hair with an oil, that moisture becomes trapped and you get a silky finish (if you run a blowout or a silk press). Wearing your natural curls will reduce the frizz.
How much is too much
When you’ve made the effort to massage your scalp and cleanse your hair, the last thing you want is to look greasy. How do you avoid this look while still taking advantage of all of the nourishing, smoothing, and frizz-reducing benefits of oils? “I feel like people are using too much of it – they just put a big globe. A little goes a long way, so sometimes even half a pump from the bottle is okay. Always start with less and build it up as you need, ”says Lopez.
Where you start with the application is also crucial to keeping your hair looking silky and not like an oil slick. Lopez says even if you see most of your frizz on the crown of your head, don’t apply the oil there to start. If your hair is still damp, divide it into sections instead, starting at the ends and working your way down to the roots with the remaining amount of product on your hands. Remember: heavier oils like coconut and olive oil leave a thicker coating on each strand of hair. So when in doubt, start with a dime amount and increase it depending on how thick or dry your hair is.
“Lots of people are scared [of oils] and they say, Oh, I used a hair oil, but my hair looks greasy right away, ”says Lopez. “If you just use a little bit, maybe a pump, and really push it into the ends and run it through the ends, it brings the hair together. Most people are looking for a bit of shine, a bit of static control, and to make the hair feel a bit more pulled together. You don’t need that much for that. “
Of course, the amount of product that is right for you depends entirely on your texture and thickness. Mensah says, “Thick, curly hair needs more coating and absorbing for smoother cuticles.” Finding the right balance between the right product and the right amount takes just a little practice.
Oil benefits added
Many oils also protect your hair from heat damage, making it an ideal pre-treatment for the rest of your styling routine. However, this does not mean that you need to increase the total amount of oil. As Lopez suggests, starting with a half pump, part your hair into sections and apply the oil with your hands starting from the ends. Then blow dry your hair with your favorite attachment.
If you’re air drying rather than a blowdryer, applying the oil to hair that is still damp will reduce frizz and increase the overall shine. Mensah also suggests sealing the ends of your hair with an oil after twisting or braiding. “Thick, curly hair needs more coating and absorption for smoother cuticles,” she reminds us.
And if you still want to use other products like gels or creams to style your hair, just consider the liquid oil-cream (or LOC) method: use a liquid or water-based product to moisturize your hair , and seal the hair moisture with an oil, then close the hair cuticle with a cream to prevent moisture loss and add hold and definition to your texture.
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